Now that the engine is removed the process of removing the pump assembly can begin. Before that though, a few other things must be removed first. In case your wondering this can be accomplished without removing the transmission if you don’t want to go that route, but as you can see the engine has to be removed instead.
Pump Removal
At first glance, you would assume that you would only need to remove the 9 Torx screws on the front of the transmission housing, but it is a little more maintenance-intensive than that.
Here is the list of parts that require removal before removing the pump as well as a list of all the associated tools needed and support equipment.
Parts Removal
- Transmission (Preferred Method)
- Engine (Alternate Method)
- Front Drivers Side Wheel
- Front Drivers Side CV Axle
- Transmission Fluid Sump Pan
- Transmission Filter
- Valve Body
- Output Flange Shaft – Transmission Drivers Side
- Torque Converter
- Stator Hub Assembly
Tools
- T27 Torx
- T30 Torx
- T40 Torx
- M10 Spline Socket
- 17mm Allen Socket
Support Equipment
- Floor Jack
- Jack Stands
Before raising the vehicle break the outboard CV axle bolt torque first. Loosening it now will make removing it easier later. It will prevent the axle from rotating while breaking the bolt loose. Remove the center cap cover located on the rim to gain access to the 17mm allen bolt.
To remove the CV axle raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the wheel and 17mm bolt, disconnect the upper control arms and steering tie rod end.
Rotate the brake and rotor assembly aft and slide the outboard CV spline shaft inboard to separate it from the rotor assembly. Once it is free, remove the six inboard CV axle flange bolts using an M10 splined socket and remove the axle from the vehicle.
Drain the transmission fluid and remove the pan and filter. Next, remove the valve body assembly. Removing the valve body will expose the transfer tubes located between the body and stator assembly.
But there is one more catch to removing the stator assembly — the inboard axle flange shaft. The shaft runs across the width of the transmission into the differential. The shaft is not difficult to remove; it is only held in by three T40 Torx bolts.
Remove the shaft assembly and the fluid transfer tubes. The transfer tubes do require a special tool, but you can remove them with a pick if necessary. I would not recommend it because they damage easily. You can purchase one online for around twenty dollars from Snapon.
Now, remove the 9 Torx screws securing the stator assembly to the front side of the transmission housing and carefully remove stator hub.
I did mention that removing the pump is possible without removing the transmission. The recommended reason for doing this is because with the transmission out and on a stand, it can be positioned vertically. This will allow gravity to keep everything aligned as you remove components. So use caution when removing the stator assembly.
At this point with the stator removed unless you have a press or something equivalent to remove the compression ring, from the c-clutch, it is best to take it to a transmission shop and have them swap the pump out for you. It is inexpensive and will save time.
However, the pump was not cheap the total cost for replacement was $280.